Jewelry of the Twentieth century
The twenties rolled on and worries were few under the "stirring" leadership of Calvin Coolidge. Fashions were soft and an interest in nature returned. Botanical motifs were common in jewelry, with lianas "writhed in demented convulsions," iris, poppies, mistletoe, and faces of women of "fatal beauty" . The only stones used were precious ones, with a preference for rare colored stones. Excellent enameled settings were the most finely executed of their craft. The colors were often kept the same as those in nature, only more vivid and always glossy. Art nouveau continued through the thirties and again design was interrupted by war.
After World War I and even more after World War II, a number of severe shocks shook the jeweller’s art. Court life that had long been their main support had all but vanished. For perhaps the first time in the history of jewelry, the availability of money was the most important factor in the design of fine jewelry.
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